With warming conditions significantly deteriorating the Khumbu Icefall, it is no longer safe to pass above Base Camp, and the 2025 Everest season is most likely over. More than 300 climbers and Sherpas have summitted the mountain so far this season. Since it was first scaled by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953, more than 8,000 people have climbed the mountain.
Two climbers have died on the mountain this year and there have also been unconfirmed reports of other deaths. Impermanence is swift.
Sherpa guide Kami Rita completed the climb today for the 31st time, breaking the record he set last year. He reached the peak this morning by the traditional southeast ridge route while guiding a 22-member Indian army team and is currently descending to the lower camps.
Kami Rita first climbed Everest in 1994 and has done so every year except for three years when the mountain was closed to climbers for various reasons. Among non-Sherpa climbers, the record is held by British guide Kenton Cool who has accomplished the feat 19 times, followed by American climbers Dave Hahn and Garrett Madison with 15 times each.
The record for the fastest climb overall is held by Sherpa Lakpa Gelu, who reached the top of the mountain in just under 11 hours. Climbing Everest typically takes weeks, with most of the time spent at the foot of the mountain adjusting to the thin air. But last week, four British climbers shrank that timeline dramatically, traveling from London to the summit and back in less than a week. They skipped the adjustment period, in part, by inhaling xenon gas.
The use of xenon gas is fiercely debated. Some research has shown that it can quickly acclimatize people to high altitudes, even as some experts say the benefits, if any, are negligible and the side effects of its use remain unclear. Doctors have used the gas in the past to precondition patients to low oxygen levels before major heart surgery.
The xenon-assisted climb has been hotly debated. A spokesperson for Nepal’s tourism department said that use of the gas was against climbing ethics. He said that it could hurt the country’s tourism industry and the Sherpas who help climbers by reducing their time on the mountain.
The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation has said there was no evidence that xenon gas improves performance and that inappropriate use can be dangerous. Xenon has also been on the World Anti-Doping Agency’s list of banned substances since 2014, although mountaineering is not a regulated competitive sport.
Since the first ascent in 1953, climbers have used a wide variety of techniques to improve performance and to open Everest to less athletic climbers. Even Hilary used Sherpa guides, Norgay among them, and use of bottled oxygen is commonplace. Hypoxic tents have been used by some climbers for years to help acclimatize, although not with xenon gas.
I find the use of the gas as a preconditioning, acclimatization aid less disturbing than the mentality that wants to reduce the climb to a seven-day door-to-door trip. From Base Camp, the British team took three days to climb to the summit, arguably one of the fastest times for a group that hadn’t acclimatized on the mountain, but otherwise unremarkable. And even though they hadn't yet arrived in Nepal, two weeks earlier the team spent time in Germany where they wore masks hooked up to ventilators as an anesthesiologist slowly introduced higher levels of xenon into their systems. Although remote, why doesn't that time away from home count as a part of their "door-to-door" climb time?
This season, American Tyler Andrews has been attempting to set a Fastest Known Time (FKT) ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. On the first attempt, on May 10-11, he turned around slightly above Camp 3, due to problems with his equipment. Last Friday, he tried again, this time with supplementary oxygen, but the high winds at the summit proved too strong to let him finish. That day, Karl Egloff of Ecuador, also attempting a FKT without oxygen, aborted shortly after Camp 3.
With weather forecasts promising good conditions for today, Andrews decided at the last minute yesterday to try a third attempt and set off for the summit last evening. But after a 17-hour, non-stop run without supplementary oxygen from Base Camp to above the Balcony, practically within touching distance of the summit, he turned around this morning, aborting his final attempt of this season.